The Wedding of Silvia Vestri and Massimo Ippolito

Massimo came to San Francisco the week just before his wedding on a business trip.  The day he arrived, we had plans to attend a Slow Food picnic on a remote ranch deep in Sonoma County.  We took him and his business friend, Bill, along. We were glad to see their positive reaction to a quality side of America.  Alice Waters was one of the sponsors of the event honoring Eric Schlosser, author of Fast Food Nation, that featured traditional American picnic fare, complete with hamburgers and chicken, but, of course, all natural products from artisan producers. We also took them on a tour of The City, including a perfect San Francisco lunch at Sam’s Grill. In all, they left San Francisco with an impression of America far removed from McDonalds.

The following week we showed up in Petrignano. We were given the honor of being invited to the family table the evening before the wedding.  Massimo’s parents from Turino, Emma and Rodolfo, turned out to be charming. Though they spoke little English, we were immediately simpatico. We hauled a Woolrich blanket all the way to Petrignano as the wedding gift, hoping it would be appreciated for its uniquely American quality. With the extreme bad behavior of our country lately, we feel obliged to offset our sinking reputation.

The wedding day was remarkable.  The little Renaissance church of Pieve di San Ansano sits locked and empty most of the time, the town using a new (and quite brutal) church for regular services.  St. Ansano is reserved for special occasions.  It is one of the great treasures of the Petrignano (along with the Frantoio Olivestri!) for it contains one of the most magnificent and heroic terracottas realized by the Della Robbia family. I was astonished! This work of art, by these most famous Renaissance artists, is not listed in any catalogue that I can find, but here it is at Petrignano to guide over the town’s life transitions, their baptisms, weddings and funerals.

Unlike formal America weddings, the guests – 250 in all – milled about waiting for the bride and groom to arrive on foot. The groom entered the church with his mother, greeting and talking to friends and relatives, the bride, glorious in her beautiful gown, came in with her father. Most of the guests followed.  Children of the Vestri family wandered around during the ceremony, and at one point the beautiful two- year-old Maria walked right up front. The bride scooped her up and held her for a portion of the ceremony.  Family matters more in Italy than anything.

On the way back from communion, Emma, seated in the front row, smiled at Kris and motioned to her.  She took Kris’ hands and without saying a word just smiled.

 After the service, everyone milled about the front of the church for pictures and then passeggiata down the middle of the street to the Villa Patrinia, the newly opened BB run buy Silvia’s sister, Francesca, and her husband, Guido, (Maria’s Mom & Dad) where the tented pavilions had been erected in the rear garden. 

Bride & Groom with the Vestri Family.
Fiorella, Guido left. Chiara, Roberto front.
Paolo top right corner. Massimo's brother just above him.

We had been told by Massimo that things were very toned down so that they could invite as many friends as possible, and not indulge in excess because they were aware that there many children dying of hunger in Africa.  We expected a buffet, and there was one, laid out with popcorn, pretzels, salami and cheese along with some other nice tidbits.  We should have known that “toned-down” means something different in an Italian wedding.

Eventually, everyone found a seat at one of the 20 large round tables and the “toned-down” feast began.  Catered by Sig. Lisi, owner of the local grocery store and one of the regions largest cured meat processing plants, we started with platter-after-platter of beautiful sweet local prosciutto, spicy and tangy sausages, and other cured meats.  Then followed a thick Ribollita, the famous Tuscan bread soup, served from bowls fashioned from huge round loaves of bread.  Then came the pasta: 2 types, one a nice ravioli. Delicious roasted pork with potatoes and vegetables followed.  Later cheese.   

There was an ever-flowing supply of wine, the white supplied by Filippo, one of Silvia’s brother-in-laws who works for Antinori, and the red supplied by Roberto, another brother-in-law who works for one of the largest Tuscan wine distributors.  Then four men paraded in under the weight of the immense, beautiful, and delicious cake.  Out came the grappa and other digistivi, sweet treats and lots of espresso. 

 By now, most of the older folks had headed for their pillows and the DJ, turned on the karaoke machine. The mood was now steamy, with a hard rain (much appreciated by the very thirsty olives still on their trees) pounding the tents.  After a little coaxing, the kids managed to get Beverly Lewis, an American x-patriot jazz singer, to take the mike.  We had heard her sing jazz standards at a great enoteca jazz club in Rome, but were astounded to hear her rip through Tina Turner classics.  The tent was hopping.

The favors presented to each guest were lovely hand painted portraits from Ethiopia made by disabled children. Their folk quality is beautiful, and Kris went about collecting as many as she could find. They were very much in keeping with the sweet sensibilities of Silvia and Massimo, who are destined to bring beautiful children to the next generation.

 We wish them a lovely life together.